Saturday, October 22, 2011

Walls great and small: A Walk in East Jerusalem
By AVIVA BAR-AM

10/21/2011 17:40

This week’s walk features an elegant 19th-century villa, a striking cathedral, three monuments, a world-renowned pottery workshop and a famous tomb.

During King Herod’s reign (37 BCE to 4 CE) and for decades afterwards, Jerusalem expanded greatly to the north. This left the new neighborhoods unprotected, and in 41 CE, soon after becoming king, Herod’s grandson Agrippa began building a wall that would incorporate them into the city. The design called for such a massive structure that after examining the foundations, Agrippa began to worry. What if Roman Emperor Claudius got a look at the wall and thought Agrippa was planning a revolt? Construction on the wall came to a screeching halt just about the time that Agrippa experienced a sudden demise.

If Agrippa had completed the wall, could it really have held off the Romans? Decide for yourself on this week’s Street Stroll, which also features an elegant 19th-century villa, a striking cathedral, three monuments, a world-renowned pottery workshop and a famous tomb. If you like, you can end your jaunt at my favorite humous joint in Sheikh Jarrah.

Begin next to the Sa’id and Sa’ad Mosque at the corner of Naomi Kis Street and Nablus Road and cross Naomi Kis over to the yellow (not the green-and-white!) gas station. What remains of Agrippa’s wall is found in front of the station, shaded by olive trees. Josephus called this the Third Wall, and that is how it is known today. Two other walls surrounded other parts of the city at the time – the Old Wall and the Middle Wall.

During the Great Revolt (66-70 CE), Jewish defenders of Jerusalem did their best to finish the wall. Unfortunately, it was not sturdy enough to hold off Roman battering rams.

As you cross the narrow adjacent street to Nablus Road on the other side, you pass a plaza hugging the guard booth of the nowdefunct American consulate. The plaza has a monument to the 25 paratroopers of the 28th Battalion who were killed in action along Nablus Road during the Six Day War.

A second memorial wall stands on the opposite side of the plaza. Who would have thought, in those heady days when this monument was erected, that there would be the need for a second, newer wall inscribed with the names of soldiers from the battalion who have fallen in Israel’s wars since 1967? Now head for No. 14 Nablus Road, across from the empty consulate, and ring the bell outside the Palestinian Pottery. This amazing enterprise belongs to the Balians, descendants of master potter Neshan Balian. The Balian and Karkashian families were brought to Jerusalem in 1917 from Kutahya, Turkey, to renovate the ceramic tiles at the Dome of the Rock. Five years later they established the first Armenian Pottery in Jerusalem. The two families parted ways some decades later, with the Balians remaining on Nablus Road.

You won’t find the Balians’ fabulous designs and handiwork in the Old City marketplace; their creations are sold only at this shop (and on their website, http://armenianceramics.com).

Sitting at the table in the store is Marie Balian, a renowned ceramic tile artist whose works have been exhibited all over the world – from the Eretz Israel Museum in Tel Aviv to the Smithsonian Museum in Washington. She is currently preparing an exhibit for an institute in Paris.

WHEN YOU leave, turn right to continue north on Nablus Road.

On your left, the east Jerusalem YMCA now includes the elegant Legacy Hotel. Past the British Council and the Nazarene Church, you come to a villa at No. 35. A prayer center is housed in this historic building, constructed in 1890 in what was an early Arab neighborhood outside the walls of the Old City.

The house was sold to a couple from the American Colony in 1904. In 1930, when Swedish consul Lewis Larsson moved in with his family, it became the Swedish Consulate. In May 1947, UNSCOP (United Nations Special Commission on Palestine) came to Jerusalem, and since Sweden was one of the countries on the commission, several meetings were held at this villa.

In In 1969 the Baptist Convention in Israel purchased the building and operated it as a center for Christian students. On the top floor, scholars translated the New Testament from Greek into modern Hebrew. The old building was renovated in 2008, and the second story now features an unusual, interactive prayer room.

Cross the street and walk a few dozen meters to one of Jerusalem’s most distinctive landmarks: St. George’s Cathedral, dating back to 1898. The center for the Anglican Church in the Middle East, this classic neo-Gothic edifice and the extraordinarily impressive buildings in the cathedral enclosure would fit easily into a traditional English countryside.

A lone Byzantine pillar stands in the center of a courtyard dominated by vaulted arcades. The column is capped with a cannonball and surmounted by a cross, representing the victory of Christianity over war. Positioned around the courtyard are the bishop’s residence, a delightful guest house, the cathedral and a splendid tower that was completed in 1910. The latter was named for King Edward VII, a genial patron of the arts who died that same year.

Interestingly, the 33-meter-high square tower with its four pointed turrets was purposely not attached to the church. It was planned that way by the architect, who feared the consequences of interdependence should there be an earthquake. The tower’s three bells are sounded for the daily Angelus (a historic call to prayer), as well as on solemn occasions.

A combination of massive stone walls, arches and the warm, dark woodwork in the ceiling and the pulpit contribute to the cathedral’s uplifting ambience. An Austrian organ is housed in a beautifully carved wooden structure at the rear of the church. Anglican congregations from Iraq and the Gulf states contributed a new pulpit to replace the original Irish stand destroyed by a mortar shell during Israel’s War of Independence.

One wall of the church holds the British royal coat of arms which, until 1948, hung in the seat of the British high commissioner at Government House.

When the British Mandate ended in 1948, the coat of arms was deposited here, in the last bastion of English domination over mandatory Palestine.

When you leave, turn right. Cross at the corner and continue left on Nablus Road to the American Colony Hotel. You are about to explore one of the first houses outside the Old City walls, dating back to the mid-1860s.

The rich effendi who built this palatial residence fitted it with beautifully decorated chambers for himself and for each of his four wives. At first completely isolated in the wastelands, the dwelling was eventually incorporated into the aristocratic neighborhood of Sheikh Jarrah that grew up around it. A splendid inner courtyard – today an exclusive restaurant – provided privacy for the villa’s inhabitants and a measure of protection from outside attack.

When the effendi died, he left no male heir to take over the historic villa. It stood empty for decades, until it was rented to a communal group of Protestants originally from Chicago. Commonly known as the American Colony, the group was led by Anna and Horatio Spafford, a couple that had experienced great personal tragedy.

Before they came to Jerusalem, the Spaffords lived in a beautiful home in Chicago. In 1873 Anna and the four Spafford daughters left on a trip to Europe, but their ship collided with another vessel. The four girls perished, but Anna was saved. More children were born to the Spaffords after this catastrophe, but one of them died of disease. The family moved to the Holy City hoping to find respite from their sorrows.

The pioneer group reached the Holy Land in 1881 and moved into lodgings within the Old City walls.

But when dozens of Swedes joined the colony in 1896, the living quarters became far too crowded for comfort. That’s when the American Colony relocated to the late effendi’s splendid villa outside the walls.

At first it had been quite a struggle to find financing for the colony’s modest daily requirements, as well as for the help the group proffered to needy Jerusalemites. Once joined by Swedish farmers, blacksmiths and expert craftsmen, however, the colony became solvent and even began to prosper. With a new bakery, blacksmith shop, dairy and a photography business, it was almost completely self-sufficient.

And eventually new vistas opened up.

The colony began taking in paying guests at the beginning of the 20th century, doubling up to make room for out-of-town visitors. Little by little, the American Colony Hotel became famous for its combination of European and Middle Eastern hospitality and ambience.

Note the beautiful original stone floors as you enjoy unique and touching exhibits. Then take stairs to a second story that features an open sitting room from which you can gaze up at the exquisite painted wooden ceiling.

BACK ON the road, turn right and continue down the street. There is a gas station on your left and construction on your right. Stop across from the Al-Kana’a Grocery, just before the turn for the Tomb of Shimon Hatzadik, and climb a few steps to a second monument from the Six Day War. This one is dedicated to 11 soldiers from the 71st Battalion who fought and died in Sheikh Jarrah and on the ridges of Mount Scopus in the battle for Jerusalem. In 1985, a new wall was added, inscribed with the names of soldiers from the battalion who fell in later years.

During King Herod’s reign (37 BCE to 4 CE) and for decades afterwards, Jerusalem expanded greatly to the north. This left the new neighborhoods unprotected, and in 41 CE, soon after becoming king, Herod’s grandson Agrippa began building a wall that would incorporate them into the city. The design called for such a massive structure that after examining the foundations, Agrippa began to worry. What if Roman Emperor Claudius got a look at the wall and thought Agrippa was planning a revolt? Construction on the wall came to a screeching halt just about the time that Agrippa experienced a sudden demise.

If Agrippa had completed the wall, could it really have held off the Romans? Decide for yourself on this week’s Street Stroll, which also features an elegant 19th-century villa, a striking cathedral, three monuments, a world-renowned pottery workshop and a famous tomb. If you like, you can end your jaunt at my favorite humous joint in Sheikh Jarrah.

Begin next to the Sa’id and Sa’ad Mosque at the corner of Naomi Kis Street and Nablus Road and cross Naomi Kis over to the yellow (not the green-and-white!) gas station. What remains of Agrippa’s wall is found in front of the station, shaded by olive trees. Josephus called this the Third Wall, and that is how it is known today. Two other walls surrounded other parts of the city at the time – the Old Wall and the Middle Wall.

During the Great Revolt (66-70 CE), Jewish defenders of Jerusalem did their best to finish the wall. Unfortunately, it was not sturdy enough to hold off Roman battering rams.

As you cross the narrow adjacent street to Nablus Road on the other side, you pass a plaza hugging the guard booth of the nowdefunct American consulate. The plaza has a monument to the 25 paratroopers of the 28th Battalion who were killed in action along Nablus Road during the Six Day War.

A second memorial wall stands on the opposite side of the plaza. Who would have thought, in those heady days when this monument was erected, that there would be the need for a second, newer wall inscribed with the names of soldiers from the battalion who have fallen in Israel’s wars since 1967? Now head for No. 14 Nablus Road, across from the empty consulate, and ring the bell outside the Palestinian Pottery. This amazing enterprise belongs to the Balians, descendants of master potter Neshan Balian. The Balian and Karkashian families were brought to Jerusalem in 1917 from Kutahya, Turkey, to renovate the ceramic tiles at the Dome of the Rock. Five years later they established the first Armenian Pottery in Jerusalem. The two families parted ways some decades later, with the Balians remaining on Nablus Road.

You won’t find the Balians’ fabulous designs and handiwork in the Old City marketplace; their creations are sold only at this shop (and on their website, http://armenianceramics.com).

Sitting at the table in the store is Marie Balian, a renowned ceramic tile artist whose works have been exhibited all over the world – from the Eretz Israel Museum in Tel Aviv to the Smithsonian Museum in Washington. She is currently preparing an exhibit for an institute in Paris.

WHEN YOU leave, turn right to continue north on Nablus Road.

On your left, the east Jerusalem YMCA now includes the elegant Legacy Hotel. Past the British Council and the Nazarene Church, you come to a villa at No. 35. A prayer center is housed in this historic building, constructed in 1890 in what was an early Arab neighborhood outside the walls of the Old City.

The house was sold to a couple from the American Colony in 1904. In 1930, when Swedish consul Lewis Larsson moved in with his family, it became the Swedish Consulate. In May 1947, UNSCOP (United Nations Special Commission on Palestine) came to Jerusalem, and since Sweden was one of the countries on the commission, several meetings were held at this villa.

In 1969 the Baptist Convention in Israel purchased the building and operated it as a center for Christian students. On the top floor, scholars translated the New Testament from Greek into modern Hebrew. The old building was renovated in 2008, and the second story now features an unusual, interactive prayer room.

Cross the street and walk a few dozen meters to one of Jerusalem’s most distinctive landmarks: St. George’s Cathedral, dating back to 1898. The center for the Anglican Church in the Middle East, this classic neo-Gothic edifice and the extraordinarily impressive buildings in the cathedral enclosure would fit easily into a traditional English countryside.

A lone Byzantine pillar stands in the center of a courtyard dominated by vaulted arcades. The column is capped with a cannonball and surmounted by a cross, representing the victory of Christianity over war. Positioned around the courtyard are the bishop’s residence, a delightful guest house, the cathedral and a splendid tower that was completed in 1910. The latter was named for King Edward VII, a genial patron of the arts who died that same year.

Interestingly, the 33-meter-high square tower with its four pointed turrets was purposely not attached to the church. It was planned that way by the architect, who feared the consequences of interdependence should there be an earthquake. The tower’s three bells are sounded for the daily Angelus (a historic call to prayer), as well as on solemn occasions.

A combination of massive stone walls, arches and the warm, dark woodwork in the ceiling and the pulpit contribute to the cathedral’s uplifting ambience. An Austrian organ is housed in a beautifully carved wooden structure at the rear of the church. Anglican congregations from Iraq and the Gulf states contributed a new pulpit to replace the original Irish stand destroyed by a mortar shell during Israel’s War of Independence.

One wall of the church holds the British royal coat of arms which, until 1948, hung in the seat of the British high commissioner at Government House.

When the British Mandate ended in 1948, the coat of arms was deposited here, in the last bastion of English domination over mandatory Palestine.

When you leave, turn right. Cross at the corner and continue left on Nablus Road to the American Colony Hotel. You are about to explore one of the first houses outside the Old City walls, dating back to the mid-1860s.

The rich effendi who built this palatial residence fitted it with beautifully decorated chambers for himself and for each of his four wives. At first completely isolated in the wastelands, the dwelling was eventually incorporated into the aristocratic neighborhood of Sheikh Jarrah that grew up around it. A splendid inner courtyard – today an exclusive restaurant – provided privacy for the villa’s inhabitants and a measure of protection from outside attack.

When the effendi died, he left no male heir to take over the historic villa. It stood empty for decades, until it was rented to a communal group of Protestants originally from Chicago. Commonly known as the American Colony, the group was led by Anna and Horatio Spafford, a couple that had experienced great personal tragedy.

Before they came to Jerusalem, the Spaffords lived in a beautiful home in Chicago. In 1873 Anna and the four Spafford daughters left on a trip to Europe, but their ship collided with another vessel. The four girls perished, but Anna was saved. More children were born to the Spaffords after this catastrophe, but one of them died of disease. The family moved to the Holy City hoping to find respite from their sorrows.

The pioneer group reached the Holy Land in 1881 and moved into lodgings within the Old City walls.

But when dozens of Swedes joined the colony in 1896, the living quarters became far too crowded for comfort. That’s when the American Colony relocated to the late effendi’s splendid villa outside the walls.

At first it had been quite a struggle to find financing for the colony’s modest daily requirements, as well as for the help the group proffered to needy Jerusalemites. Once joined by Swedish farmers, blacksmiths and expert craftsmen, however, the colony became solvent and even began to prosper. With a new bakery, blacksmith shop, dairy and a photography business, it was almost completely self-sufficient.

And eventually new vistas opened up.

The colony began taking in paying guests at the beginning of the 20th century, doubling up to make room for out-of-town visitors. Little by little, the American Colony Hotel became famous for its combination of European and Middle Eastern hospitality and ambience.

Note the beautiful original stone floors as you enjoy unique and touching exhibits. Then take stairs to a second story that features an open sitting room from which you can gaze up at the exquisite painted wooden ceiling.

BACK ON the road, turn right and continue down the street. There is a gas station on your left and construction on your right. Stop across from the Al-Kana’a Grocery, just before the turn for the Tomb of Shimon Hatzadik, and climb a few steps to a second monument from the Six Day War. This one is dedicated to 11 soldiers from the 71st Battalion who fought and died in Sheikh Jarrah and on the ridges of Mount Scopus in the battle for Jerusalem. In 1985, a new wall was added, inscribed with the names of soldiers from the battalion who fell in later years.


Your last point of interest is the traditional burial site of Shimon Hatzadik, a Jewish high priest during the time of the Second Temple. Many are the stories and legends around Shimon Hatzadik, but he is most famous for his maxim that the world stands on three things: Torah, divine worship and acts of loving kindness (Pirkei Avot 1:2).

To visit this unprepossessing tomb, turn at the sign, take the left fork and turn left into the parking lot.

End your tour, if you like, with humous, pita and chopped salad. Return to Nablus Road, turn right, cross the intersection and continue straight ahead up a short hill next to the Automatic Grocery. Stop at the tiny eatery on your right.

Then begin the long trek back to where you started.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Azamara Quest and Prinsendam passengers: Special Offer - Tour of Dead Sea and Jerusalem

************************************* LAND EXCURSION SPECIAL OCTOBER 30 AND 31 AZAMARA QUEST AND PRINSENDAM ************************************************

Dear Passengers on the Azamara Quest and Prinsendam mooring in Ashdod on Sunday October 30, Marilyn and I are pleased and honored to offer a private tour for two to the Dead Sea and Jerusalem for only $450 USD. You will be picked up at the Ashdod Port at @8:15 AM and we will drive you directly to Masada along the Dead Sea coast. After touring Masada we will customize the rest of your journey based on your particular interests. We suggest a dip in the Dead Sea on the way back to Jerusalem. In Jerusalem, you will have a customized tour of the Old City based on your wishes. We do recommend starting with at the Mt. of Olives, then walk down the Pilgrimage Path into the Old City via one of the 7 functioning ages. We recommend you sleep overnight in Jerusalem- yes we will show you the sights at night as well. We can get you special rates. Then the next day we can either return you to the port at Ashdod or go up to Haifa port with a tour of northern Israel along the way. A sample testimonial: Ashdod; the gateway for visiting Jerusalem, what more can be said. Wanting to see the Holy City and simultaneously do some other unique activities I opted for a private excursion with Mark Zober (markztours@gmail.com). I will highly recommend this option as there is so little time and so much to see to include making your way through the thousands of tourists and crowded streets. It is the only way to see Jerusalem unless you have at least a week to spare. I highly recommend Mark to anyone wanting to see Jerusalem - he is very well educated, very reasonable, and is flexible and organized. Mark will customize any excursion to your needs. Besides the four main Jerusalem quarters, I asked Mark to have us do the City of David to include all the three underground tunnels. These tunnels were just recently discovered it was a great experience but be ready for some heavy duty walking. I limited my group to a total of only 10 people; maneuver the throngs of tourists staying small is wise. Jerusalem is an amazing city filled with so much history that one day is not enough; however Mark packed in as much as humanly possible for one day. Come join Marilyn and I on a thrilling tour. First come first serve. Cordially, Mark Mark Alan Zober, Ph.D. Licensed Israel Tour Guide Past President, Jerusalem Rotary Club (District 2490) 465/5 Eliezer Kashani Street East Talpiot Jerusalem ISRAEL 972-2-673-3882 972-54-590-0223 Home/Office Jerusalem 972-8-684-3401 Home/Office Ashkelon BLOG http://tourguides0607.blogspot.com/ SKYPEID mzober

Monday, October 17, 2011

Crusader who signed Magna Carta Buried at Entrance to Holy Sepulchre

Jerusalem Curiosities Abraham Ezra Millgram 1990 The Burial Place of one of the signers of the Magna Carta One of the surprising curiosities of Jerusalem is the tombstone at the entrance to the Holy Sepulchre which marks the burial place of Sir Philip D’Aubigny, one of the signers of the Magna Carta. He came to the Holy Land as a crusaderin 1222 and died in 1236. There is no record of the 14 years of his residence in Jerusalem except the slab between the entrances to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Reverend J. E. Hanauer researched this historic monument and describes it in his book Walks in and Around Jerusalem: Stretched in from of the clusters of columns, between the two great portals of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, is a marble slab, bearing the epitaph of Philip D’Aubeny, and a Norman shield with his amorial bearings. In 1887, by reference to several ancient records, Tutor Henry III of Winchester, who, crowned when only a child of 8 years of age, was entrusted to his care during the protectorship of the able Earl of Pembroke. Before the accession of Henry III, however, and during the reign of King John, we find the name Sir Philip D’Aubeny amongst the barons who signed the Magna Carta. Sir Philip left England for the holy wars in Palestine in 1222. He resided in the country for 14 years and died in 1236. The identity of the personage buried here has been uncontestably proved by the amorial bearings, as well as by historical records, with the family D’Aubeny, still existing in England, the chief seat of which appears to have been the manor of South Petherton, Somersetshire. Philip I requested to be buried inside the Holy Sepulchre but his wish was not granted. He was fortunate. While Kings of the Kingdom of Jerusalem Geoffrey and Baldwin I were buried inside, their tomb raided and remains removed. In November 22 1977 an article in the Jerusalem Post by Judy Siegel “Family Reunion in Jerusalem After 770 Years.” An Englishwomen was reunited over the weekend with her 13th century Crusader forebearer at the church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem’s Old City, through the assistance of Mayor Teddy Kollek. Alisa Rushbrook had written to the mayor that one of her ancestors was Philip D’Aubigny, who took part in the Crusaders’ exploits in the Holy Land some 700 years ago. This fact, she wrote, was authenticated in 1925 by Sir Reginald Storrs, the military governor of Jerusalem, in an article he wrote for “The Times” of London. Archaeological excavations at the time uncovered Philip’s bones and tablets describing the family tree in the church, where, according to most Christian traditions, Jesus was buried. The Englishwoman had been to Jerusalem several times before an attempt to uncover the tablets in the grave and take photographs, but she had never been successful. Clergy of three of the sects in charge of the Church- Greek Orthodox, Catholic and Armenian- had been involved in a disagreement and would not grant to approval to uncover the rubble. The mayor, who has an excellent relationship with the leaders of the various churches, proceeded to mediate among the clergymen, and Mrs. Rushbrook was invited to the church. Arriving with her husband, she found the tablets and took pictures to record the Latin script. The tomb of Sir Philip in front of the double entrance to the Holy Sepulchre is now covered with well worn planks to protect it from vandalism and from further deterioration due to the incessant footsteps of throngs of visitors to the church.

Saturday, October 15, 2011

Dining in Jerusalem: Recommendations by Restaurateurs from Barcelona

These two restaurants are highly recommended for serious diners in Jerusalem. We learned of these from one of our guests "Amy Artal Patnaik" , who is a restaurateur in Barcelona Chakra 41 King George St. 02-6252733 Recently relocated and redesigned, this place is both a popular restaurant and one of the busiest night spots in Jerusalem. MahaneYuda Beit Ya'akov 10, Mahane Yehuda Market 02-5333442 The décor and the food is funky, idiosyncratic but soulful, though sometimes the three chef owners sharing the open kitchen get a little carried away by their own coolness. Still overall experience is fabulous. Currently the hottest restaurant in Jerusalem, so book well ahead. ##################################### Now for our Barcelona recommendation: Cinc Sentiits Recommended for:Foodies, Special occasions Best for Gourmets -Expert review of Cinc Sentits Last updated 31 January 2011 Elegant Michelin-starred restaurant with a deep respect for the ways of the Catalan kitchen. Brother and sister Jordi (chef) and Amy Artal (maître d’) run this small, well-respected shrine to modern Catalan cuisine, which finally earned a much-deserved Michelin star in 2009. Food and drink: There is no a la carte, just two tasting menus – the six-course Essència or the eight-course Sensacions. To start they will bring you the house ‘chupito’ – a shot glass layered with rock salt, maple syrup (a nod to their Canadian roots), cream and cava sabayon, and then a parade of creative dishes that might include crisp coca bread with caramelised leeks and foie gras; red mullet with basil risotto, or suckling pig with ‘two textures’ of apple. Ambience: The dining room is hushed and minimalist – this is not the place for a rowdy party. Service: Amy and her multilingual team are knowledgeable and charming, and will steer you through the range of options and a good wine list. Location: Cinc Sentits is on C/Aribau, just up from the intersection with C/Aragó. Price advice: The Essència menu is 50 euros, while the Sensacions menu is 69 euros. More information on Cinc Sentits: Price guide:ExpensiveType:RestaurantFood:CatalanAddress:C/Aribau 58, Barcelona, 08011Telephone:93 323 94 90Website:http://www.cincsentits.comServes:Lunch, DinnerOpening times:Tue-Sat 1.30-3pm, 8.30-10.30pm. Closed Sundays, Mondays and two weeks in August.Accepts Credit Cards:YesReservations:Essential at peak times Have you been to Cinc Sentits? Would you

Thursday, October 6, 2011

FACTS ABOUT ISRAEL - SOURCE: CIA WORLD FACTBOOK

FACTS ABOUT ISRAEL - SOURCE: CIA WORLD FACTBOOK Background: Following World War II, the British withdrew from their mandate of Palestine, and the UN partitioned the area into Arab and Jewish states, an arrangement rejected by the Arabs. Subsequently, the Israelis defeated the Arabs in a series of wars without ending the deep tensions between the two sides. The territories Israel occupied since the 1967 war are not included in the Israel country profile, unless otherwise noted. On 25 April 1982, Israel withdrew from the Sinai pursuant to the 1979 Israel-Egypt Peace Treaty. In keeping with the framework established at the Madrid Conference in October 1991, bilateral negotiations were conducted between Israel and Palestinian representatives and Syria to achieve a permanent settlement. Israel and Palestinian officials signed on 13 September 1993 a Declaration of Principles (also known as the "Oslo Accords") guiding an interim period of Palestinian self-rule. Outstanding territorial and other disputes with Jordan were resolved in the 26 October 1994 Israel-Jordan Treaty of Peace. In addition, on 25 May 2000, Israel withdrew unilaterally from southern Lebanon, which it had occupied since 1982. In April 2003, US President BUSH, working in conjunction with the EU, UN, and Russia - the "Quartet" - took the lead in laying out a roadmap to a final settlement of the conflict by 2005, based on reciprocal steps by the two parties leading to two states, Israel and a democratic Palestine. However, progress toward a permanent status agreement was undermined by Israeli-Palestinian violence between September 2003 and February 2005. In the summer of 2005, Israel unilaterally disengaged from the Gaza Strip, evacuating settlers and its military while retaining control over most points of entry into the Gaza Strip. The election of HAMAS to head the Palestinian Legislative Council froze relations between Israel and the Palestinian Authority (PA). Ehud OLMERT became prime minister in March 2006 and presided over a 34-day conflict with Hizballah in Lebanon in June-August 2006 and a 23-day conflict with HAMAS in the Gaza Strip during December 2008 and January 2009. OLMERT, who in June 2007 resumed talks with PA President Mahmoud ABBAS, resigned in September 2008. Prime Minister Binyamin NETANYAHU formed a coalition in March 2009 following a February 2009 general election. Direct talks launched in September 2010 collapsed following the expiration of Israel's 10-month partial settlement construction moratorium in the West Bank. Diplomatic initiatives to revive the negotiations through proximity talks began at the end of 2010. Geography ::ISRAEL Location: Middle East, bordering the Mediterranean Sea, between Egypt and Lebanon Geographic coordinates: 31 30 N, 34 45 E Map references: Middle East Area: total: 20,770 sq km country comparison to the world: 154 land: 20,330 sq km water: 440 sq km Area - comparative: slightly larger than New Jersey Land boundaries: total: 1,017 km border countries: Egypt 266 km, Gaza Strip 51 km, Jordan 238 km, Lebanon 79 km, Syria 76 km, West Bank 307 km Coastline: 273 km Maritime claims: territorial sea: 12 nm continental shelf: to depth of exploitation Climate: temperate; hot and dry in southern and eastern desert areas Terrain: Negev desert in the south; low coastal plain; central mountains; Jordan Rift Valley Elevation extremes: lowest point: Dead Sea -408 m highest point: Har Meron 1,208 m Natural resources: timber, potash, copper ore, natural gas, phosphate rock, magnesium bromide, clays, sand Land use: arable land: 15.45% permanent crops: 3.88% other: 80.67% (2005) Irrigated land: 2,250 sq km (2008) Total renewable water resources: 1.7 cu km (2001) Freshwater withdrawal (domestic/industrial/agricultural): total: 2.05 cu km/yr (31%/7%/62%) per capita: 305 cu m/yr (2000) Natural hazards: sandstorms may occur during spring and summer; droughts; periodic earthquakes Environment - current issues: limited arable land and natural freshwater resources pose serious constraints; desertification; air pollution from industrial and vehicle emissions; groundwater pollution from industrial and domestic waste, chemical fertilizers, and pesticides Environment - international agreements: party to: Biodiversity, Climate Change, Climate Change-Kyoto Protocol, Desertification, Endangered Species, Hazardous Wastes, Ozone Layer Protection, Ship Pollution, Wetlands, Whaling signed, but not ratified: Marine Life Conservation Geography - note: Lake Tiberias (Sea of Galilee) is an important freshwater source; there are about 355 Israeli civilian sites including about 145 small outpost communities in the West Bank, 41 sites in the Golan Heights, and 32 in East Jerusalem (2010 est.) People and Society ::ISRAEL Nationality: noun: Israeli(s) adjective: Israeli Ethnic groups: Jewish 76.4% (of which Israel-born 67.1%, Europe/America-born 22.6%, Africa-born 5.9%, Asia-born 4.2%), non-Jewish 23.6% (mostly Arab) (2004) Religions: Jewish 75.6%, Muslim 16.9%, Christian 2%, Druze 1.7%, other 3.8% (2008 census) Languages: Hebrew (official), Arabic (used officially for Arab minority), English (most commonly used foreign language) Population: 7,473,052 (July 2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 97 note: approximately 296,700 Israeli settlers live in the West Bank (2009 est.); approximately 19,100 Israeli settlers live in the Golan Heights (2008 est.); approximately 192,800 Israeli settlers live in East Jerusalem (2008 est.) Age structure: 0-14 years: 27.6% (male 1,057,113/female 1,008,978) 15-64 years: 62.2% (male 2,358,858/female 2,292,281) 65 years and over: 10.1% (male 331,034/female 424,788) (2011 est.) Median age: total: 29.4 years male: 28.7 years female: 30.1 years (2011 est.) Population growth rate: 1.584% (2011 est.) country comparison to the world: 73 Birth rate: 19.24 births/1,000 population (2011 est.) country comparison to the world: 98 Death rate: 5.47 deaths/1,000 population (July 2011 est.) country comparison to the world: 175 Net migration rate: 2.08 migrant(s)/1,000 population (2011 est.) country comparison to the world: 40 Urbanization: urban population: 92% of total population (2010) rate of urbanization: 1.5% annual rate of change (2010-15 est.) Major cities - population: Tel Aviv-Yafo 3.219 million; Haifa 1.027 million; JERUSALEM (capital) 768,000 (2009) Sex ratio: at birth: 1.05 male(s)/female under 15 years: 1.05 male(s)/female 15-64 years: 1.03 male(s)/female 65 years and over: 0.78 male(s)/female total population: 1 male(s)/female (2011 est.) Maternal mortality rate: 7 deaths/100,000 live births (2008) Infant mortality rate: total: 4.12 deaths/1,000 live births country comparison to the world: 200 male: 4.3 deaths/1,000 live births female: 3.94 deaths/1,000 live births (2011 est.) Life expectancy at birth: total population: 80.96 years country comparison to the world: 17 male: 78.79 years female: 83.24 years (2011 est.) Total fertility rate: 2.7 children born/woman (2011 est.) country comparison to the world: 75 Health expenditures: 9.5% of GDP (2009) Physicians density: 3.633 physicians/1,000 population (2007) Hospital bed density: 5.83 beds/1,000 population (2007) Drinking water source: improved: urban: 100% of population rural: 100% of population total: 100% of population (2008) Sanitation facility access: improved: urban: 100% of population rural: 100% of population total: 100% of population (2008) HIV/AIDS - adult prevalence rate: 0.2% (2009 est.) country comparison to the world: 101 HIV/AIDS - people living with HIV/AIDS: 7,500 (2009 est.) country comparison to the world: 109 HIV/AIDS - deaths: fewer than 100 (2009 est.) country comparison to the world: 136 Obesity - adult prevalence rate: 22.9% (2001) Education expenditures: 5.9% of GDP (2007) country comparison to the world: 30 Literacy: definition: age 15 and over can read and write total population: 97.1% male: 98.5% female: 95.9% (2004 est.) School life expectancy (primary to tertiary education): total: 15 years male: 15 years female: 16 years (2008) Government ::ISRAEL Country name: conventional long form: State of Israel conventional short form: Israel local long form: Medinat Yisra'el local short form: Yisra'el Government type: parliamentary democracy Capital: name: Jerusalem geographic coordinates: 31 46 N, 35 14 E time difference: UTC+2 (7 hours ahead of Washington, DC during Standard Time) daylight saving time: +1hr, begins first Friday in April; ends the Sunday between the holidays of Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur note: Israel proclaimed Jerusalem as its capital in 1950, but the US, like all other countries, maintains its Embassy in Tel Aviv Administrative divisions: 6 districts (mehozot, singular - mehoz); Central, Haifa, Jerusalem, Northern, Southern, Tel Aviv Independence: 14 May 1948 (from League of Nations mandate under British administration) National holiday: Independence Day, 14 May (1948); note - Israel declared independence on 14 May 1948, but the Jewish calendar is lunar and the holiday may occur in April or May Constitution: no formal constitution; some of the functions of a constitution are filled by the Declaration of Establishment (1948), the Basic Laws of the parliament (Knesset), and the Israeli citizenship law; note - since May 2003 the Constitution, Law, and Justice Committee of the Knesset has been working on a draft constitution Legal system: mixed legal system of English common law, British Mandate regulations, and Jewish, Christian, and Muslim religious laws International law organization participation: has not submitted an ICJ jurisdiction declaration; withdrew acceptance of ICCt jurisdiction in 2002 Suffrage: 18 years of age; universal Executive branch: chief of state: President Shimon PERES (since 15 July 2007) head of government: Prime Minister Binyamin NETANYAHU (since 31 March 2009) cabinet: Cabinet selected by prime minister and approved by the Knesset (For more information visit the World Leaders website ) elections: president largely a ceremonial role and is elected by the Knesset for a seven-year term (one-term limit); election last held 13 June 2007 (next to be held in 2014 but can be called earlier); following legislative elections, the president, in consultation with party leaders, assigns the task of forming a governing coalition to a Knesset member who he or she determines is most likely to accomplish that task election results: Shimon PERES elected president; number of votes in first round - Shimon PERES 58, Reuven RIVLIN 37, Colette AVITAL 21; PERES elected president in second round with 86 votes (unopposed) Legislative branch: unicameral Knesset (120 seats; political parties are elected by popular vote and assigned seats for members on a proportional basis; members serve four-year terms) elections: last held on 10 February 2009 (next scheduled election to be held in 2013) election results: percent of vote by party (preliminary) - Kadima 23.2%, Likud-Ahi 22.3%, YB 12.1%, Labor 10.2%, SHAS 8.8%, United Torah Judaism 4.5%, United Arab List 3.5%, Hadash 3.4%, National Union 3.4%, New Movement-Meretz 3%, The Jewish Home 3%, Balad 2.6%; percent of vote by party (final) - Kadima 22.5%, Likud-Ahi 21.6%, YB 11.7%, Labor 9.9%, SHAS 8.5%, United Torah Judaism 4.4%, United Arab List 3.4%, Hadash 3.3%, National Union 3.3%, New Movement-Meretz 3%, The Jewish Home 2.9%, Balad 2.6%; seats by party - Kadima 28, Likud-Ahi 27, YB 15, Labor 13, SHAS 11, United Torah Judaism 5, United Arab List 4, National Union 4, HADASH 4, The Jewish Home 3, New Movement-Meretz 3, Balad 3 Judicial branch: Supreme Court (justices appointed by Judicial Selection Committee - made up of all three branches of the government; mandatory retirement age is 70) Political parties and leaders: Balad [Jamal ZAHALKA]; Democratic Front for Peace and Equality (HADASH) [Muhammad BARAKEH]; Independence [Ehud BARAK]; Kadima [Tzipora "Tzipi" LIVNI]; Labor Party [Eitan CABEL]; Likud [Binyamin NETANYAHU]; National Union [Yaakov KATZ]; SHAS [Eliyahu YISHAI]; The Jewish Home (HaBayit HaYehudi) [Daniel HERSCHKOWITZ]; The New Movement-Meretz [Haim ORON]; United Arab List-Ta'al [Ibrahim SARSUR]; United Torah Judaism or UTJ [Yaakov LITZMAN]; Yisrael Beiteinu or YB [Avigdor LIEBERMAN] Political pressure groups and leaders: B'Tselem [Jessica MONTELL, Executive Director] monitors human rights abuses; Peace Now [Yariv OPPENHEIMER, Secretary General] supports territorial concessions in the West Bank and Gaza Strip; YESHA Council of Settlements [Danny DAYAN, Chairman] promotes settler interests and opposes territorial compromise; Breaking the Silence [Yehuda SHAUL, Executive Director] collects testimonies from soldiers who served in the West Bank and Gaza Strip International organization participation: BIS, BSEC (observer), CERN (observer), CICA, EBRD, FAO, IADB, IAEA, IBRD, ICAO, ICC, ICRM, IDA, IFAD, IFC, IFRCS, ILO, IMF, IMO, IMSO, Interpol, IOC, IOM, IPU, ISO, ITSO, ITU, ITUC, MIGA, OAS (observer), OECD, OPCW (signatory), OSCE (partner), Paris Club (associate), PCA, SECI (observer), UN, UNCTAD, UNESCO, UNHCR, UNIDO, UNWTO, UPU, WCO, WHO, WIPO, WMO, WTO Diplomatic representation in the US: chief of mission: Ambassador Michael B.OREN chancery: 3514 International Drive NW, Washington, DC 20008 telephone: [1] (202) 364-5500 FAX: [1] (202) 364-5607 consulate(s) general: Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Houston, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, Philadelphia, San Francisco Diplomatic representation from the US: chief of mission: Ambassador Daniel B. SHAPIRO embassy: 71 Hayarkon Street, Tel Aviv 63903 telephone: [972] (3) 519-7575 FAX: [972] (3) 516-4390 consulate(s) general: Jerusalem; note - an independent US mission, established in 1928, whose members are not accredited to a foreign government Flag description: white with a blue hexagram (six-pointed linear star) known as the Magen David (Shield of David) centered between two equal horizontal blue bands near the top and bottom edges of the flag; the basic design resembles a Jewish prayer shawl (tallit), which is white with blue stripes; the hexagram as a Jewish symbol dates back to medieval times National anthem: name: "Hatikvah" (The Hope) lyrics/music: Naftali Herz IMBER/traditional, arranged by Samuel COHEN note: adopted 2004, unofficial since 1948; used as the anthem of the Zionist movement since 1897; the 1888 arrangement by Shmuel COHEN is thought to be based on the Romanian folk song "Carul cu boi" (The Ox Driven Cart) Economy ::ISRAEL Economy - overview: Israel has a technologically advanced market economy. It depends on imports of crude oil, grains, raw materials, and military equipment. Despite limited natural resources, Israel has intensively developed its agricultural and industrial sectors over the past 20 years. Cut diamonds, high-technology equipment, and agricultural products (fruits and vegetables) are the leading exports. Israel usually posts sizable trade deficits, which are covered by large transfer payments from abroad and by foreign loans. Roughly half of the government's external debt is owed to the US, its major source of economic and military aid. Israel's GDP, after contracting slightly in 2001 and 2002 due to the Palestinian conflict and troubles in the high-technology sector, grew about 5% per year from 2004-07. The global financial crisis of 2008-09 spurred a brief recession in Israel, but the country entered the crisis with solid fundamentals - following years of prudent fiscal policy and a series of liberalizing reforms - and a resilient banking sector, and the economy has shown signs of an early recovery. Following GDP growth of 4% in 2008, Israel's GDP slipped to 0.2% in 2009, but reached 3.4% in 2010, as exports rebounded. The global economic downturn affected Israel's economy primarily through reduced demand for Israel's exports in the United States and EU, Israel's top trading partners. Exports of goods and services account for about 40% of the country's GDP. The Israeli Government responded to the recession by implementing a modest fiscal stimulus package and an aggressive expansionary monetary policy - including cutting interest rates to record lows, purchasing government bonds, and intervening in the foreign currency market. The Bank of Israel began raising interest rates in the summer of 2009 when inflation rose above the upper end of the Bank's target and the economy began to show signs of recovery. GDP (purchasing power parity): $219.4 billion (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 52 $209.8 billion (2009 est.) $208.1 billion (2008 est.) note: data are in 2010 US dollars GDP (official exchange rate): $213.1 billion (2010 est.) GDP - real growth rate: 4.6% (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 78 0.8% (2009 est.) 4.2% (2008 est.) GDP - per capita (PPP): $29,800 (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 46 $29,000 (2009 est.) $29,300 (2008 est.) note: data are in 2010 US dollars GDP - composition by sector: agriculture: 2.4% industry: 32.6% services: 65% (2010 est.) Labor force: 3.147 million (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 102 Labor force - by occupation: agriculture: 2% industry: 16% services: 82% (September 2008) Unemployment rate: 6.7% (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 63 7.5% (2009 est.) Unemployment, youth ages 15-24: total: 14.72% male: 15.67% female: 13.88% (2009) Population below poverty line: 23.6% note: Israel's poverty line is $7.30 per person per day (2007) Household income or consumption by percentage share: lowest 10%: 2.5% highest 10%: 24.3% (2008) Distribution of family income - Gini index: 39.2 (2008) country comparison to the world: 67 35.5 (2001) Investment (gross fixed): 17.4% of GDP (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 123 Budget: revenues: $61 billion expenditures: $69.08 billion (2010 est.) Taxes and other revenues: 28.6% of GDP (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 94 Budget surplus (+) or deficit (-): -3.8% of GDP (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 115 Public debt: 74.5% of GDP (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 25 77.6% of GDP (2009 est.) Inflation rate (consumer prices): 2.7% (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 90 3.3% (2009 est.) Central bank discount rate: 1% (31 December 2009) country comparison to the world: 111 2.5% (31 December 2008) Commercial bank prime lending rate: 4.492% (31 December 2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 173 3.7% (31 December 2009 est.) Stock of narrow money: $31.24 billion (31 December 2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 55 $26.21 billion (31 December 2009 est.) Stock of broad money: $208.8 billion (31 December 2009 est.) country comparison to the world: 39 $195.7 billion (31 December 2008 est.) Stock of domestic credit: $175.6 billion (31 December 2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 40 $154.7 billion (31 December 2009 est.) Market value of publicly traded shares: $218.1 billion (31 December 2010) country comparison to the world: 31 $182.1 billion (31 December 2009) $134.5 billion (31 December 2008) Agriculture - products: citrus, vegetables, cotton; beef, poultry, dairy products Industries: high-technology products (including aviation, communications, computer-aided design and manufactures, medical electronics, fiber optics), wood and paper products, potash and phosphates, food, beverages, and tobacco, caustic soda, cement, construction, metals products, chemical products, plastics, diamond cutting, textiles, footwear Industrial production growth rate: 8.7% (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 35 Electricity - production: 53.04 billion kWh (2008 est.) country comparison to the world: 46 Electricity - consumption: 47.16 billion kWh (2008 est.) country comparison to the world: 48 Electricity - exports: 3.666 billion kWh (2008 est.) Electricity - imports: 3.666 billion kWh (2008 est.) Oil - production: 4,029 bbl/day (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 97 Oil - consumption: 238,000 bbl/day (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 52 Oil - exports: 86,010 bbl/day (2009 est.) country comparison to the world: 67 Oil - imports: 282,200 bbl/day (2009 est.) country comparison to the world: 40 Oil - proved reserves: 1.94 million bbl (1 January 2011 est.) country comparison to the world: 95 Natural gas - production: 1.55 billion cu m (2009 est.) country comparison to the world: 60 Natural gas - consumption: 3.25 billion cu m (2009 est.) country comparison to the world: 69 Natural gas - exports: 0 cu m (2009 est.) country comparison to the world: 115 Natural gas - imports: NA (2009 est.) Natural gas - proved reserves: 198.2 billion cu m (1 January 2011 est.) country comparison to the world: 45 Current account balance: $6.699 billion (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 29 $7.063 billion (2009 est.) Exports: $55.84 billion (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 50 $45.9 billion (2009 est.) Exports - commodities: machinery and equipment, software, cut diamonds, agricultural products, chemicals, textiles and apparel Exports - partners: US 32.1%, Hong Kong 6.3%, India 5.1%, Belgium 5.1% (2010) Imports: $57.93 billion (2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 46 $45.99 billion (2009 est.) Imports - commodities: raw materials, military equipment, investment goods, rough diamonds, fuels, grain, consumer goods Imports - partners: US 12.8%, China 8.1%, Germany 6.3%, Belgium 5.8%, Switzerland 4.6%, Italy 4.2% (2010) Reserves of foreign exchange and gold: $70.91 billion (31 December 2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 27 $60.61 billion (31 December 2009 est.) Debt - external: $106 billion (31 December 2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 36 $93.25 billion (31 December 2009 est.) Stock of direct foreign investment - at home: $77.82 billion (31 December 2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 44 $69.16 billion (31 December 2009 est.) Stock of direct foreign investment - abroad: $64.97 billion (31 December 2010 est.) country comparison to the world: 31 $57.37 billion (31 December 2009 est.) Exchange rates: new Israeli shekels (ILS) per US dollar - 3.739 (2010) 3.93 (2009) 3.588 (2008) 4.14 (2007) 4.4565 (2006) Communications ::ISRAEL Telephones - main lines in use: 3.25 million (2009) country comparison to the world: 48 Telephones - mobile cellular: 9.022 million (2009) country comparison to the world: 70 Telephone system: general assessment: most highly developed system in the Middle East although not the largest domestic: good system of coaxial cable and microwave radio relay; all systems are digital; four privately-owned mobile-cellular service providers with countrywide coverage international: country code - 972; submarine cables provide links to Europe, Cyprus, and parts of the Middle East; satellite earth stations - 3 Intelsat (2 Atlantic Ocean and 1 Indian Ocean) (2008) Broadcast media: state broadcasting network, operated by the Israel Broadcasting Authority (IBA), broadcasts on 2 channels, one in Hebrew and the other in Arabic; 5 commercial channels including a channel broadcasting in Russian, a channel broadcasting Knesset proceedings, and a music channel supervised by a public body; multi-channel satellite and cable TV packages provide access to foreign channels; IBA broadcasts on 8 radio networks with multiple repeaters and Israel Defense Forces Radio broadcasts over multiple stations; about 15 privately-owned radio stations; overall more than 100 stations and repeater stations operating (2008) Internet country code: .il Internet hosts: 1.689 million (2010) country comparison to the world: 35 Internet users: 4.525 million (2009) country comparison to the world: 51 Transportation ::ISRAEL Airports: 48 (2010) country comparison to the world: 92 Airports - with paved runways: total: 30 over 3,047 m: 2 2,438 to 3,047 m: 5 1,524 to 2,437 m: 6 914 to 1,523 m: 11 under 914 m: 6 (2010) Airports - with unpaved runways: total: 18 1,524 to 2,437 m: 1 914 to 1,523 m: 3 under 914 m: 14 (2010) Heliports: 3 (2010) Pipelines: gas 211 km; oil 442 km; refined products 261 km (2010) Railways: total: 975 km country comparison to the world: 89 standard gauge: 975 km 1.435-m gauge (2010) Roadways: total: 18,290 km country comparison to the world: 115 paved: 18,290 km (includes 146 km of expressways) (2009) Merchant marine: total: 10 country comparison to the world: 113 by type: cargo 2, container 8 registered in other countries: 51 (Bermuda 3, Cyprus 1, Georgia 1, Honduras 1, Liberia 31, Malta 5, Marshall Islands 1, Moldova 4, Panama 1, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines 3) (2010) Ports and terminals: Ashdod, Elat (Eilat), Hadera, Haifa Military ::ISRAEL Military branches: Israel Defense Forces (IDF), Israel Naval Forces (IN), Israel Air Force (IAF) (2010) Military service age and obligation: 18 years of age for compulsory (Jews, Druzes) and voluntary (Christians, Muslims, Circassians) military service; both sexes are obligated to military service; conscript service obligation - 36 months for enlisted men, 21 months for enlisted women, 48 months for officers; pilots commit to 9 years service; reserve obligation to age 41-51 (men), 24 (women) (2010) Manpower available for military service: males age 16-49: 1,797,960 females age 16-49: 1,713,230 (2010 est.) Manpower fit for military service: males age 16-49: 1,517,510 females age 16-49: 1,446,132 (2010 est.) Manpower reaching militarily significant age annually: male: 62,304 female: 59,418 (2010 est.) Military expenditures: 7.3% of GDP (2006) country comparison to the world: 6 Transnational Issues ::ISRAEL Disputes - international: West Bank and Gaza Strip are Israeli-occupied with current status subject to the Israeli-Palestinian Interim Agreement - permanent status to be determined through further negotiation; Israel continues construction of a "seam line" separation barrier along parts of the Green Line and within the West Bank; Israel withdrew its settlers and military from the Gaza Strip and from four settlements in the West Bank in August 2005; Golan Heights is Israeli-occupied (Lebanon claims the Shab'a Farms area of Golan Heights); since 1948, about 350 peacekeepers from the UN Truce Supervision Organization (UNTSO) headquartered in Jerusalem monitor ceasefires, supervise armistice agreements, prevent isolated incidents from escalating, and assist other UN personnel in the region Refugees and internally displaced persons: IDPs: 150,000-420,000 (Arab villagers displaced from homes in northern Israel) (2007) Illicit drugs: increasingly concerned about ecstasy, cocaine, and heroin abuse; drugs arrive in country from Lebanon and, increasingly, from Jordan; money-laundering center

Monday, October 3, 2011

Always looking for Israeli Tour Guide Blogs-Touring Israel with Benny Powers

Take a look at: http://bennypowersisraeltours.wordpress.com/2011/07/15/the-four-sephardi-synagogues-in-the-jewish-quarter/#more-101 Always looking for Israeli Tour Guide Blogs-Touring Israel with Benny Powers Please send in your Blog Link if you are a licensed Israeli tour guide or in training. It is great to share! Mark and Marilyn

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Fact Sheet for Classic Tour from Haifa Port - Christian Oriented

TOUR FROM HAIFA PORT FACT SHEET Haifa - 266,000 population; 90% Jewish 700,000 Metropolitan area. 8% Arab most Muslim) Largest port in Israel. Built on the slopes of Mount Carmel. Home to the Baha'i World Center. The port has been mentioned in recorded history for over 3400 years. Home to two major universities - Haifa University and the Technion. Wonderful Museum at Haifa University – the Hecht Archeological Museum Bahai Terrace and Gardens- UNESCO World Heritage Site. “The Hanging Garden's of Haifa”. Situated on Mount Carmel Surrounds the Shrine of the Bab. The faith starts in Persia/Iran in mid 19th Century – much persecution. The 18 Terraces represent the first 18 disciples of of the Bab. With the level of the Shrine of the Bab there are 19 terraces – very important number in the faith. Fariborz Sahba began work in 1987 designing the gardens and oversaw construction. Gardens completed in 2001. Bahai believe in the unity of all religions – Moses, Jesus and ohters were messengers of God The most recent of these heavenly teachers, according to Baha'is, was Baha'u'llah (1817-92), whose arrival was heralded by the Bab. Baha'u'llah was exiled by the Turkish authorities to Acre (Akko), where he wrote his doctrines and died a peaceful death in Bahji House. The Bab's remains were hidden for years after he died a martyr's death in front of a firing squad in 1850. Eventually, the Bab's remains were secretly carried to the Holy Land. During one of his visits to Haifa in 1890, Baha'u'llah pointed out to his son the spot on Mount Carmel where the remains of the Bab should be laid to rest in a befitting tomb. Mount of Beatitudes Sermon on the Mount - Matthew 5-7; Antonio Barluzzi 1939. Catholic/Franciscan Tabgha – SEVEN SPRINGS. Church of the Multiplication of Fish and Loaves Catholic/Benedictine – Current church built in the 1980s on foundation of Byzantine church and mosaic. It is possible to identify lotus, oleander and lily; also duck, snipe, heron, goose, dove, swan, cormorant, flamingo and stork. A tower marked with bands bearing Greek letters, probably for measuring the water level of the Sea of Galilee (known as a "nilometer"), is also depicted. “And when he had taken the five loaves and the two fishes, he looked up to heaven, and blessed, and brake the loaves, and gave them to his disciples to set before them; and the two fishes divided he among them all. And they did all eat, and were filled. And they took up twelve baskets full of the fragments, and of the fishes. And they that did eat of the loaves were about five thousand men”. (Mark 6: 30-44) Church of the Primacy of St. Peter - Catholic/Franciscan: 1933 built on foundation of 4th century church. The church of St. Peter’s Primacy was built by Franciscans in 1933 to remember the place where Jesus bestowed church leadership on Peter in Matthew 16:18: “And I tell you that you are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church, and the gates of Hades will not overcome it.” The church is built over a flat rock that Byzantine pilgrims believed was the Mensa Christi where Jesus ate fish with his disciples after the resurrection. Capernaum Capernaum was the center of Jesus activities in the Galilee and his town during that time. Jesus taught in the local synagogue. It was also the home town of the apostles Peter, James, Andrew and John, and the tax collector Matthew. The Synagogue was built at the end of the 4th century CE. This building was built from white limestone, which is in contrast with the local black basalt buildings. It had a roof, which stood over the pillars that are seen in the hall. This earlier synagogue was the center of activities of Jesus, where he taught (Mark 1:21: "And they went into Capernaum; and straightway on the Sabbath day he entered into the synagogue, and taught.") Luke 4:31 "And came down to Capernaum, a city of Galilee, and taught them on the sabbath days." Mathew 4:13, 18:22 According to Mathew , Capernaum is "in the borders of Zabulon and Nephthalim". "And leaving Nazareth, he came and dwelt in Capernaum, which is upon the sea coast, in the borders of Zabulon and Nephthalim" The text continues to tells us that here in Capernaum Jesus chooses the fishermen as disciples: "And Jesus, walking by the sea of Galilee, saw two brethren, Simon called Peter, and Andrew his brother, casting a net into the sea: for they were fishers. And he saith unto them, Follow me, and I will make you fishers of men. And they straightway left their nets, and followed him. And going on from thence, he saw other two brethren, James the son of Zebedee, and John his brother, in a ship with Zebedee their father, mending their nets; and he called them. And they immediately left the ship and their father, and followed him." Nazareth – Basilica of the Annunciation 1969 Giavanni Munzio Roman Catholic/Franciscan Built over Byzantine and Crusader churches. Has the childhood home of Mary in the Grotto. The angel Gabriel to a virgin called Mary, that she would conceive and become the mother of Jesus the Son of God. Gabriel told Mary to name her son Jesus, meaning "Saviour". Many Christians observe this event with the Feast of the Annunciation on 25 March, nine full months before Christmas. According to the Bible (Luke 1:26), the Annunciation occurred "in the sixth month" of Elisabeth's pregnancy with the child later called John the Baptist. St. Joseph's Church, Joseph's Work Shop Church of the Nutrition (Luke 2: 39-40).Built in 1914, on the foundations of a Crusader church, with Romanesque influences. Mount Precipice Luke 4 (16-30) Mary's Well The structure seen today was is a 1960s reconstruction of a well-house from the 19th century and stands over the ancient public well possibly used by Mary. Today, water no longer flows to Mary's Well. Recent excavations have uncovered possible Byzantine and especially Crusader-era tunnels running from the well to houses in the area. Pottery from the 2nd century AD was also found here.

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

An Expression of Gratitude

Marilyn and I want to express of sincere gratitude to all of our recent guests. We have had the honor to guide. We have been blessed with the opportunity to show many guests who have visited Israel on their cruises on the Celebrity Silhouette. Leslie and Morley, Meryle, Cheryl, Martin and Linda, Zeke and Barbara, Denny and Barbara etc. have organized groups and arranged private tours. Each was customized to meet unique needs. We are humbled by their organizing skills (it is not easy to form groups of strangers and convert them to harmonious groups.) We look forward to showing Denny on Sunday and Zeke and Barbara and their group on Monday around the country. We have learned some important lessons. Listening to the needs of our guests is essential. We remain very flexible when circumstances change. In one case the ship did not dock in the the scheduled port. We had to change drivers and our personal schedules to make this work. Another lesson deals with pace. Some groups have a great desire for adventure. Last week were one of the very first groups to visit the City of David and walk from Shiloam Pool through the ancient sewage drain, where the Jewish fled from the Roman soldiers on hte 9th of Av (July 30) 70 CE at the end of a dramatic revolt. While this was a very strenuous adventure - everyone made up to the top! HOWEVER, there are other groups and individuals who want a less challenging tour. The advantage of working with two tour guides (Marilyn usually is part of the tour), we can divide our groups into those with differing interests. We also have learned that the best way to visit is a private tour for a couple. It permits a lot more flexibility and we can meet many more needs. However this is a bit more expensive for our guests. Again thank you all. We have more land excursions ahead in October and November - there are some open dates still available if you are interested.

The Byzantine Church on Masada

When visiting Masada I suggest that you take the path less traveled up to the Guard Tower to the left of the entrance to the palace area. From this watch towner you get a wonderful 360 degree view of Masada. Looking south you see the Roman army barracks followed by the Byzantine Church and Western Palace. Below is a quote from the Monk John Moschus who visited and wrote about this church in 600 CE. "Near the Dead Sea is a mountain called Marda. On this mountain live hermits who have a vegitable garden six miles away near the seashore Whenever the hermits wish to send out to the garden for vegetables. they harness a donkey and tell it, "'go to the garden and bring us vegetables.' and it goes down quite alone to the gardener. Every day one can see the donkey ascending and decending on its own and serving the elders."wa Why did the monks settle in the ruins of a fortress in the heart of the desert? In the desert they sought the tranqulity that would bring them closer to the Creator. The cells of the monks who lived on Masada in the 5th to 7th centuriesCE were scattered all over the mountain in small buildings , in caves and in cisterns that had gone out of use. There they communicated with the Creator in isolation, and here, in the church, they gathered to worship together. The courtyard of the chruch, in whichsome domestic installations were found, was walled. Water was brought here the cisterns on the slopes and from renovated cisterns on the summit.

Saturday, September 17, 2011

Timeline Jaffa Israel

Timeline Early Bronze Age Earliest evidence of occupation in Jaffa Middle Bronze Age 1900-1530 BCE Jaffa established and fortified as Canaanite seaport Late Bronze Age 1530-1200 Jaffa thrives as Canaanite port Early 15th cent. Jaffa taken by Thutmose III 14th cent. Egyptian fort established by Ramesses II Iron Age 12th-11th cent. Canaanite port with contact with Philistia 10th cent. Jaffa continues as Canaanite port and served ancient Israel Late 8th cent. Jaffa fortified but besieged by Sennacherib of Assyria Late 4th cent. Jaffa and Dor given to Eshmunazzar of Sidon Hellenistic Period 330 Coins minted in Joppa under Alexander 318 Ptolemy (I) placed garrison in Joppa 315 Antigonus besieged and captured Joppa 301 Joppa fell under Ptolemaic rule 200 Joppa fell under Seleucid rule 176 Antiochus IV Epiphanes lands at Joppa to march to Jerusalem 143 Jaffa occupied by Simon; improves port (1 Macc. 11:1-6; 12:33-34; 13:11; also Ant. XIII.6.4) 139 Antiochus VII Sidetes attempts to receive payment from Simon for Joppa and Gezer but fails (1 Macc. 15:28-31) 134 Sidetes retakes Joppa after death of Simon and besieged Jerusalem; Hyrcanus ransoms Joppa 113 Joppa taken by Antiochus IX Kyzikenos and duties placed on trade Romans decree that Joppa be returned to the Hasmoneans (Ant. XIV.10.22) 104 Alexander Jannaeus dug trench from Antipatris (Kefar Saba) to sea near Joppa, and raised wall near Joppa (Ant. XIII.15.1) Roman Period 66 CE Cestius Gallus sent army from Caesarea to take Joppa (Wars II.18.10) 68 Vespasian used cavalry to retake Joppa (Wars III.9.2) 270-272 Jaffa under Palmyrene rule Byzantine Period Jaffa served as seaport for Christian pilgrims coming to Jerusalem. Medieval Period 636 Amr Ibn al-As captured Joppa for Arab tribes led by Omar 971 Fatimid army takes refuge from Arab army 1016 Earthquake hit region 1033 Dec. 5: Yafa devastated with other sites after earthquake and tsunami 1064-5 French Norman pilgrims visit and depart through Yafa 1099 Yafa razed by Fatimids and abandoned before being taken by Franks Yafa made a county and overseen by Rodger, seigneur of Rosay, as count Bishopric re-established under authority of Caesarea 1100 One-fourth of Yafa given to Pisans in treaty with Godfrey June: Venetian fleet arrived in Yafa July 18: Godfrey died in Yafa hospital Fortification rebuilt 1101 Egyptian army of 20,000 besieged Yafa but abandoned effort April 16: 32 ships of Genoese fleet arrived in Jaffa Genoese receive a street in Jaffa as part of treaty with Baldwin 1102 Baldwin sought refuge following a failed siege of Fatimid held Ascalon Oct. 13: heavy storm took one thousand lives and numerous ships 1103 Baldwin rebuilt city; defends against two attempted sieges by Fatimids Patriarch Arnulf granted land for the building of cemetery for St. Peter's church 1105 Fatimids besieged Yafa again 1106/1107 Russian Abbot, Daniel (Daniel 1888), passed through Yafa 1110 Fleet of sixty ships brings 10,000 Norwegians and English to Yafa 1113 Fatimids from Ashkelon fail again in a siege of Yafa 1114 Church of St. Peter given to patriarch of church of Holy Sepulcher 1115 Fatimids from Ashkelon fail again in a siege of Yafa but burn gates 1121 Fatimid siege of Jaffa was abandoned when relief force arrived 1123 Egyptian fleet destroyed by Venetians in a failed siege of Yafa; Venetians granted a street, bath, and oven 1133 Yafa rebelled against king Fulke 1187 Oct. 2: Yafa surrendered to al-Melek al-Adel Seif ed-Din, brother of Saladin 1191 Walls (and those of other coastal towns) destroyed when abandoned by Saladin 1192 July 28-August: Saladin besieges Yafa 1193 el-Melek el-Adel besieged Yafa, but it was reoccupied by Crusaders several months later 1198 Nov. 11: Small contingent of Crusaders holding Yafa massacred 1228 Walls rebuilt by Crusaders but stopped due to peace negotiations (see Crusader inscription) 1244 Yafa besieged following failed Crusader battle against Kharezmians, but he withdrew 1250 Saint Louis seeks to rebuild Yafa fortifications 1268 Mar. 7: Yafa besieged by Bibars, expelled Christians, and razed city 1334 Rabbi Issac Chelo visits Yafa 1336 Sultan en-Nasir Nasir-ed-Din Mohammed destroyed quay to prevent new Crusade form landing Ottoman Period 1642 Franciscan monks start settlement to accommodate pilgrims 1654 Latin Hospice founded (on place of Simon the Tanner's house) 1733 Soap industry revived in Jaffa 1770 Mameluke Ali Bey took Yafa from Osman Pasha 1772 Yafa returned to Ottomans 1772 July: Mameluke ruler Ali Bey besieged Yafa until Feb. 1773 and took it 1775 Mohammed Bey Abu-l-Dhahab besieged Yafa to retake it from Ali Bey's supporter; ends May 1776 1799 March 3rd-6th Bonaparte besieged Jaffa; plague follows day after Yafa besieged by el-Jazzar after dispute with Grand Wezir 1804 Yafa again besieged by Suleiman Pasha 1810-1820 Walls rebuilt around city by Abu-Nabbut 1815 Large mosque rebuilt; fountain built by Abu-Nabbut 1816 Eastern gate rebuilt 1831 Yafa surrendered to Ibrahim el-Ajami and Ibrahim Pasha 1839 Ashkenazi Jews settle in Yafa 1866 Foundation of The Jaffa American Colony by George Adams 1867 Mark Twain passes through Jaffa and comments on the "fiasco" of the American colony 1879 City walls demolished to accommodate growth of city 1892 Jaffa-Jerusalem Railway commenced 1909 Tel Aviv founded British Mandate 1917 British arrived in Jaffa 1945 Excavations begun by P. L. O. Guy State of Israel 1947-1950 Excavations by P. L. O. Guy (Israel Dept. of Antiquities and Museums) 1952 Excavations by John Bowman and B. S. J. Isserlin (University of Leeds) 1955-1981 Excavations by Jacob Kaplan and Haya-Ritter Kaplan 1961 Jaffa Museum opened by Kaplan 1994 Israel Antiquities Authority excavations commences under Martin Peilstocker 1997, 1999 Excavations in Kaplan's Area A by Tel Aviv University under direction of Ze'ev Herzog 2007 Jaffa Cultural Heritage Project (IAA-UCLA) established

Monday, September 12, 2011

FOUR ANCIENT SYNAGOGUES – THE BEATING HEART OF THE SEPHARDI COMMUNITY IN JERUSALEM

It was in 1267 that Rabbi Moshe Ben-Nakhman (known as Nachmanides or by his initial, as the RaMBaN) arrived in Jerusalem from Gerona in Catalonia, Spain, to bring new life and organization to the city’s Jews. He quickly set up a synagogue in a “half-ruined house with marble pillars and a fine dome” (as he wrote to his son, Nakhman)and for centuries after it continued to serve all the city’s Jews, whatever community they owed allegiances to. Until that is, in 1586 the Turkish city governor (known as Abu Seifin) ordered it closed, on the pretext that a hundred years before the building had been sanctified as a mosque. Jerusalem’s Jews had not choice but to manage again as separate communities. The Sephardim built their new center to the south of the Ramban synagogue, at a spot where tradition say, in the time of the Second Temple, had stood the study house of no less then Rabban Yokhanan be-Zakai himself, the renowned tanna (scholar-judge) who took over leadership of the people after the Temple’s destruction and the uprooting of the Sanhedrin from Jerusalem to Yavneh.
The need to build new synagogues coincided wth a marked with a marked growth in the numbers of Jews in the city, for the rulers of the Ottoman empire allowed Jews who had settled in their territory after the expulsion from Spain (1492) to move freely within the empire and when the Ottomans captured Jerusalem in December, 1516, a steady influx of their Jews into the city had begun. However, under the prohibitions decreed by Islam, no “infidel” prayer house could stand higher than a neighboring Muslim holy place. Jews got round the difficulty by starting their synagogues’ ground floors 3 meters below street level, adorning the necessity by quoting Psalm 130, “Out of the depths, O Lord, I call you.”
By the beginning of the 19th Century the four synagogues were derelict and tottering, with the rain dripping through holes and cracks. At last, in 1835, the Sephardi community’s notables succeeded in obtaining from the Governor of the Holy Land, Ibrahim Pasha (son of Muhammad Ali, the famous governor of Egypt who had conquered the land in 1831) a permit for the synagogues’ renovation and repair. The lay-out of the areas containing the four synagogues was at the same time reshaped to make it a single compound, which now encompassed- because of the different periods of synagogue construction – a uniquely rich variety of architectural styles and features.

This period of physical reconstruction also marked a turning point in the status of the Jewish community in Palestine-Eretz Yisrael. In 1840 the Ottoman authorities restored their direct rule over the land. In consequence of this and of other changes that had taken place (for instance, the great European powers had began asserting their interests by opening foreign consulates in Jerusalem), Istanbul made Jerusalem an independent Sanjaq (district), answering directly to Istanbul an not, as before, to the governor of Damascus, and as a result, the standing of the community and its notables underwent a very positive change. Jerusalem’s Chief Rabbi, a Sephardi, who had hitherto borne the traditional Jewish title of “First in Zion” (Rishon LeTzion) was now officially designated Hakham Bashi, that is, head of the Jerusalem Jewish community and all its rabbis, and as such enjoyed official status under the Ottoman system of government.

The four, now structurally linked, synagogues, together with their study houses and charitable institutions (Bet HaRashal, the Sephardi Talmud Torah (study house), the Tifferet Yerushalayim yeshiva, the widows’ alms-house) now made up the center of the Jerusalem Sephardi community’s spiritual and cultural life, a community which until the 1870s was by far the largest Jewish community in the city and the only one to enjoy official recognition by the authorities and the non-Jewish population throughout the whole period of Ottoman rule.

The Qahal Qadosh Gadol (Great Congregation) Rabban Yokhanan ben Zakai This synagogue, built in the late 16th – early 17th Centuries, held pride of place among the four synagogue, to the extent that the whole compoundwas sometimes called the Rabban Yokhanan ben Zakai compound. The synagogue, oriented west-east, had an elongated interior leading up to not one but two Holy Arks, both with Gothic-style fronts and symmetrically placed against the eastern wall. The high stone-built prayer dais (bima) in the center was also elongated, with a decorative wrought-iron railing on all four sides. It was in this synagogue that, from 1893 on, the Rishon LeTzion and Kakham Bashi, was ceremonially “enthroned” and where public meetings and assemblies were held and where important communal events such as the official ceremony in 1870 to welcome Emperor Franz Joseph of Austria-Hungary, took place.
Until the destruction of 1948, the congregation cherished an old sofar (ram’s horn trumpet) and oil jug in a niche in one of the synagogue walls. Tradition whispered from generation to generation that with this very shofar the prophet Elijah would announce the coming of the Messiah and with oil poured from this ancient juglet the Messiah would be anointed.
The Eliahu HaNavi Talmud Torah Congregation Expert opinion is that this synagogue (it also served as a study house) was the first of the four built. The ceiling of the main prayer hall was domed in the Turkish style and its large stone prayer dais was railed and furnished in wood. In the north-west corner is a large alcove, from which steps lead down to “Elijah’s Cave”. There people came to place lighted oil lamps , each flame imploring the Prophet to make a special wish come true.

How did the synagogue come to be named after the great Elijah? Well, the time-honored story goes that the community of Jews in the city was once so small they could not even make up a minyan (the 10 men required for holding public prayer). This was very distressing to the 9 available men, and even more so when the holiest day of the year, the Day of Atonement, arrived There they were and the time had come to say the Kol Nidrei prayer that opens the Day, when an old man joined them and , wonderfully, made himself one of them. To commemorate the miracle they added the name of the Prophet to the name of the synagogue.

The Istanbuli Synagogue This synagogue is both the largest and last to be built, having been constructed in the 1760s by immigrants from Istanbul; hence its name. Its windows are very distinctive, they are large and deeply recessed in the thick walls, each one made up of three long vertical panes surmounted by a single, wide horizontal one. Flanking the Holy Ark stood two Corinthian columns carved around the arabesques. Like the other four synagogues, it had a high prayer dais. The Istanbuli also had a geniza, a space or chamber where books of scripture, too worn or damaged for use but too holy to be thrown out or destroyed, were stored. Every so often the geniza was emptied and the old books and scrolls carried in public procession to be reverently buried in a cave in the ancient Sambuski Sephardi cemetery at the foot of Mount Zion.

The Emtza’I (Middle) Synagogue Zion Congregation This is the smallest of the four synagogues called the “middle” one for the simple reason that it was built on a plot of land between the other three, a plot which apparently had, till then, been an outside courtyard of the Rabban Yokhanan ben Zakai synagogue, accommodating its women’s enclosure. The origin of the synagogue’s official name, Zion Congregation, goes back to a tradition that an underground passage once connected the synagogue to the grave-site of the kings of the House of David. Like the Rabban Yokhanan ben Zakai synagogue, it has an elongated interior and a groin-vaulted ceiling.

During Israel’s War of Independence (1947-48), all four synagogues provided shelter to the inhabitants of the Old City, it was from them that the Quarter’s defenders filed out to captivity in Jordan. All four were then devastated: they were plundered, burnt and the skeletal remains used as stalls for horses, goats and sheep.

On the liberation of the Old City in 1967 Six Day War, the four synagogues were found in the ruinous state described earlier, and piled high with rubble and manure. But to our great fortune at least the outer walls stood intact. The Council of Sephardi Communities and the Jerusalem Fund, with assistance from the Israeli government, the Yad Avei HaYishuv organization and donations from other funds and individuals in Israel and around the world, took on the task of restoration. It was not until the Hundreds of tons of accumulated refuse has been removed and the basic structure of walls and roof repaired and rebuilt, that it was possible to restore the structures to their former, beauty and glory.

The National Parks Authority had charge of the work, with practical direction in the hands of the architect, Dan Tannai, whose first concern at all times was to restore the original lay-out and reconstruct each synagogue’s outstanding former characteristics and features. Before the destruction, the splendor of the buildings had been their interior furnishings, especially the prayer dais and Holy Arks. Antique dais, arks and lamps were now brought from Spain and Italy and their dimensions precisely altered to fit the new settings. Item by item, the atmosphere and appearance of the synagogues of that past age was recreated.

Finally, in the intermediate days of Succot, 1972, al four synagogues were reinaugurated and rededicated in a solemn and moving ceremony, attended by the State’s leaders and high officials.
- Text: Dania Haim

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Finding Your Way around Tel Aviv

Although Tel Aviv was not really built as a planned city, but rather had neighborhoods added in what often seem haphazard patches, it is still possible to easily get around the city – if you know the basics (as outlined in Geddes’ plan).
Four main streets run parallel to the coast. They are:

North to South

Hayarkon Street (near the beach, where most of the hotels are located)

Ben Yehuda Street (which merges into Allenby Street in the south)

Dizengoff Strret

Even G’virol Street

East to West

The following streets intersect the streets listed above:

Nordau Boulevard (in the north)

Zabotinsky Street

Arlozorov Street

Ben Gurion Boulevard

Gordon Street

Frishman Street

Bugrashov Street

While getting around Tel Aviv may not be as easy as in cities that were built according to a comprehensive urban plan – if you know which streets run from north to south and which intersect them from east to west, you should find getting around the city, much easier.

[Souce: Gems in Israel, April 2001]

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Bauhaus International Style Architecture in Tel Aviv - A UNESCO World Heritage Site







#5 Frug St.


Whether you call it Bauhaus or International Style architecture, Tel Aviv is still the only city in the world that houses such a large collection of buildings designed in this style. It evolved in Germany in the 1920's, came to an abrupt end (in Germany) with the Nazi's rise to power and continued to develop in the U.S. and elsewhere. In Tel Aviv of the 1930's, Bauhaus architecture flourished, as is evidenced by many of the wonderful buildings that line the city's streets. Since the initial publication of this issue, the "White City of Tel Aviv" has been designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage site.


Central Tel Aviv has the world's largest collection of Bauhaus style buildings. The International Modern Style of architecture appeared in Europe in the years immediately following World War One. Its greatest exponent was the Bauhaus School of Arts, Design and Architecture, founded by Walter Gropius in Weimar Germany in 1919. The Bauhaus School later moved to Berlin and was closed by the Nazis in 1933. Over the years many have come to regard the terms Bauhaus and International Modern Style as synonymous.


The rise of Nazism and successive waves of Jewish immigration to Palestine brought many new immigrants from Germany, including several prominent Bauhaus architects, to Tel Aviv in the 1930's. In Israel these architects had to adapt their style to different environmental, especially climatic, conditions. Tel Aviv's tremendous urban growth at this time provided them with ample work. The results can be seen through the approximately 4,000 Bauhaus style buildings that were built in Tel Aviv in the 1930's and 40's.

So what is Bauhaus Architecture?
Bauhaus style architecture favored functionality for the benefit of the residents over decoration. In building design, the organization of space took prominence over mass. Architects strove to optimize light and ventilation, an especially important challenge as they moved from central Europe to Middle East. Bauhaus buildings standout for neat flowing lines, both vertically and horizontally. Decorative elements were avoided. Construction favored the use of modern materials and relied on an internal shell rather than being supported by external walls. In Tel Aviv many Bauhaus buildings were built standing on pillars with dangling corners to provide for greater ventilation and shady areas outdoors.

Where to Find Bauhaus Style Buildings in Tel Aviv
Since there are roughly 4,000 Bauhaus style buildings in Tel Aviv, as you begin to notice their defining features, you will start to see a lot of them. Try the northern end of Rothschild Boulevard, especially on the east side of the street in the 80's. Personal favorites include 87 Rothschild Blvd and Beit Rabinsky at 1 Gilboa St. Other good areas for viewing Bauhaus style buildings include Dizengoff Square and nearby Beilinson, Ben Ami and Frug Streets, along with the area of Yael and Shlomo Hamelech Streets north of Dizengoff Sq. Additional good examples can be seen on Mazeh and Nachmani Streets off the middle of Rothschild Blvd.

Remember to bring your camera to capture these special buildings.

There are a number of characteristics to the Bauhaus/International Style of architecture:
1) It shuns ornamentation and favors functionality
2) Uses asymmetry and regularity versus symmetry
3) It grasps architecture in terms of space versus mass

Bauhaus architecture was concerned with the social aspects of design and with the creation of a new form of social housing for workers. This may be just another one of the reasons it was embraced in the newly evolving city of Tel-Aviv, at a time when socialist ideas were so prevalent. This style of architecture came about (in part) because of new engineering developments that allowed the walls to be built around steel or iron frames. This meant that walls no longer had to support the structure, but only enveloped it – from the outside.

Bauhaus buildings are usually cubic, favor right angles, (although some feature rounded corners and balconies); they have smooth facades and an open floor plan.

The Bauhaus buildings are all on the street and so they are accessible as a normal street.

The building featured on the Bauhaus Center Walking Tour (Self Guided with map and headphones or on Friday 10 AM guided tour)

1. Bauhaus Center, 99 Dizengoff (opens 10 AM week days) has a very good video on history of Tel Aviv with emphasis on architecture from Eclectic to Art Nouveau to International Style.

2. 6/8 Yael St.

3. 3 Yael St.

4. 5 Yael St.

5. 20 Shlomo HaMelech St.

6. 21/23 Shlomo HaMelech St.

7. 14 Shlomo HaMelech St.

8. 12 Shlomo HaMelech St.

9. 11 Shlomo HaMelech St. (12 Tel Hai St.)

10. Dizengoff Circle

11. 5 Frug St.



12. 33/35 Frishman St.

13. 32/34/36 Frug St.

Other noted buildingsd:

21 Lord Melchett St.

49 Ahad Haam Street, architect Zachi Shlush

Other touring areas are:

Rothschild Blvd. (and the surrounding area of Shenkin)
Dizengoff St.
Bialik St.
Mazeh and Kalisher St.


Tel Aviv has the largest number of cooperative workers’ apartments in the country. The aim was to provide residents with as much equality in living quarters. These blocks of apartments, operated almost as self-contained units. Residents had a variety of services right in the buildings, including kindergarten, post office, convenience store, laundry etc. Additionally, a plot of land was set aside, so that residents could grow their own vegetables. Having a ‘connection to the land’ was viewed as extremely important. An example of such a cooperative unit can be seen at the corner of Frishman, Dov Hoz and Frug streets. This block of buildings also served as headquarters of the Haganah.

There are over 1500 International Style buildings in Tel Aviv, slated for preservation/restoration. Looking at some of the buildings already restored, one can only imagine how beautiful and modern the city must have looked in the 1930’s.

Some Local Bauhaus Adaptations

Smaller Windows

Some of the key elements of Bauhaus architecture had to be adapted to the local environment, primarily because of the climate. One of the key elements of the International Style in Europe was a large window. However, in a hot climate – large windows that let great amounts of light shine into the rooms – do not make sense. Locally, glass was used sparingly and long, narrow, horizontal windows are visible on many of the Bauhaus buildings in Tel Aviv. On some buildings, you can also see long narrow balconies, which in many cases have now been enclosed. This was an adaptation of the long narrow windows.

The horizontal ‘strip window’ was a signature characteristic of Le Corbusier. A number of local architects worked in Le Corbusier’s office in Paris and were greatly influenced by his style.

Stilt Columns (Pilotis)

Another element used by Le Corbusier was stilt-type columns (pilotis), which raised the buildings off street level thereby creating room for a green garden area while providing greater airflow.

The first building built in this manner in Tel Aviv, was Beit Engel. It was built in 1933, by Zeev Rechter, and is located at 84 Rothschild Boulevard, and the corner of Ma’zeh Street. Rothschild Boulevard is an excellent area to see a great variety of Bauhaus buildings (although quite a few are in dire need of restoration). If you go to see the Engel building today you will notice that the ‘open’ area created by the stilt columns has been enclosed. Rechter fought for two years to get approval to build on these stilt columns. This type of building became quite common, in Tel Aviv and the surrounding cities, although by the 1940’s fewer buildings were being built in this manner in Tel Aviv.

Flat Roofs

Another of the local features of the Bauhaus buildings, are the flat roofs, as opposed to the typical shingled and slanted roofs, prevalent in the European buidlings. The roofs served all of a buidlings’ residents. While roofs in most cases did not feature gardens, (as envisioned by Le Corbusier), they were a place where social events were held and where the laundry room was often located as well.

Reinforced Concrete

The local building technology of the time was not advanced. Reinforced concrete was first used (in Tel Aviv) in 1912. Later it became widely used, because it was easy to work with and did not require skilled workers.

Bauhaus architecture became common in Tel Aviv of the 1930’s for a variety of reasons. There was a strong tendency toward modernization. Architects, who worked locally, had strong ties to the European architectural developments of the day. There was also a need to build cheaply and quickly because of the growing metropolis.

Tel Aviv is the only city in the world, built mostly, in the International Style. In fact, over the years a kind of reactionary ‘anti-Bauhaus’ sentiment, developed.

Saving and restoring many of the city’s wonderful old buildings is fraught with legal and economic constraints that often make conservation, less than desirable for the building’s owners. One can only hope that the coming years will bring solutions that will enable the preservation of more of Tel Aviv’s Bauhaus architecture.


The unofficial international style site from Israel
(The site started as an eMail address gift to a friend who loves Bauhaus)
English אנגלית, Hebrew עברית
Home, eCards, Posters, The School, BauHauses, Caricatures, Architects, Store
Bauhauses List and some pictures

The links are to Artlog.co.il where you can find much more details on each house and the architects


Architect Usage Address City Year
Architect Name House name Address City Year
Arieh Sharon 1900-1980 Chen Cinema 16 Ben Ami st. Tel-Aviv 1945
Carl Rubin 1899-1955 Dizengoff House 16 Rotschild Blvd. Tel-Aviv 1934
Carl Rubin 1899-1955 Hadar House 19 Derech Petach Tikva Tel-Aviv 1935
Dov Carmi 1905-1962 Zlotopolsky House 9 Gordon St. Tel-Aviv 1935
Dov Kutchinsky 1883-1966 Credit Bank 69 Nachalat Binyamin st. Tel-Aviv 1930
Friedman brothers ? Peltzman House 18 Bialik st. Tel-Aviv 1934
Genia Averbouch 1909-1977 Mirenbourg, Ya'avetz House 13 Ben Amy/ 11 Kikar Dizingoff Tel-Aviv 1936
Hayim Sokolinsky BarBag Corp. House Rothschild Blvd/Nahmani st. Tel-Aviv 1933
Jacob Pinkerfeld 1897-1956 Beit Hannah 75 Ben Gurion Blvd. Tel-Aviv 1934
Joseph & Ze'ev Berlin Rubinsky & Braun House 82 Rotschild Blvd. Tel-Aviv 1932
Joseph & Ze'ev Berlin Ha'aretz Print House 56 Ma'ze st. Tel-Aviv 1935
Joseph Neufeld 1898- Kupat Cholim House 14 Ben Ami st. Tel-Aviv 1937
Joseph Neufeld 1898- Assuta Hospital 80 Jabotinsky st. Tel-Aviv 1934
Lucian Korngold 1897-1972 Rubinsky House 1 Hagilboa st. Tel-Aviv 1936
Pinchas (Philip) Huett 1888-1949 Ogen House 23 Pinsker st. Tel-Aviv 1936
Pinchas (Philip) Huett 1888-1949 Mirenburg House 65 Hovevey Zion st. Tel-Aviv 1936
Richard Kaufmann 1877-1958 Kruskal House 21 Hess st. Tel-Aviv 1936
Salomon Liaskovssky, Jecob Orenshtein The Elephant - Polishuck House Tel-Aviv 1934
Sam Barkai ? Aginsky House 5 Engel st. Tel-Aviv 1934
Sharon, Neufeld Diker, Rubin Meonot Ovdim Z Workers flats 64-66 Ben Gurion Blvd. Tel-Aviv 1936
Shim'on Hamadi Levi The Boat House 56 Levanda st. Tel-Aviv 1934
Shlomo Bernstein 1907-1969 Efroni House 95 Achad Ha'am st. Tel-Aviv 1934
Shmuel mestiechkin 1908- The White Gallery House 12-14 Rupin st. Tel-Aviv 1937
Zaki Chelouche 1894-1975 Braun Hause 49 Achad Ha'am st. Tel-Aviv 1934
Ze'ev (Wilhelm) Haller 1882-1956 Hornstein House 54 King George/48 Dizingoff Tel-Aviv 1936
Ze'ev (Wilhelm) Haller 1882-1956 Bruno Hause 3 Strauss st. Tel-Aviv 1935
Ze'ev Rechter 19xx-1960 Engle House 84 Rotschild Blvd. Tel-Aviv 1933
Ze'ev Rechter 19xx-1960 Dvoletzky House 70 Hayarkon st. Tel-Aviv 1934



On Monday,June 7/2/2003 the UNESCO declared the inner- city of Tel-Aviv a WORLD HERITAGE SITE,saving the 4,500 Bauhaus-buildings(and the buildings designed from 1909)for their destruction.

It is proper to thank a few people for their never ending fight for the survival of Historic buildings in Tel-Aviv.
First of all:]

Dr.MICHAEL LEVIN
It was Dr.Levin who with his exhibition " THE WHITE CITY"(1984) opened the eyes of the inhabitants of Tel-Aviv about their BAUHAUS buildings. In 1994 he cooperated in the INTERNATIONAL STYLE CONFERENCE( May22-28) in Tel-Aviv.

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Half Day Tour of Tel Aviv Jaffa from Ashdod Port (Sunday thru Thursday)

We pick you up at Ashdod port at 1:30 PM at the exit gate and

Drive directly to Jaffa where we will take a walk along the Mediterranean promenade and go up to a lovely view point and the Wishing Bridge.

We then take a short drive to Newe Tzedek, a trendy section of south Tel Aviv, to have coffee a the well known and popular Suzana Cafe at #9 Shabazi St..

From here we drive to Rothschild St to view the "White City" UNESCO Historic site Bauhaus buildings.

We end our day with a tour of the Palmach Museum - for this 1 1/2 hour guided tour.

We return to Ashdod port arriving @6:45 PM.

While we are experiencing a number of wonderful sites in a relatively short period of time, we will keep up a relaxed, pleasant pace.

I look forward to meeting you in Ashdod on the 18th.

The cost is $500 USD payable in dollars or equivalent New Israel Shekels. This does not include Coffee at Suzana.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Celebrity Silhouette and other cruisers: Ashdod Port and Cruise Ships - Opportunities

We realize that there have been some recent discussions on Cruise Critic about the Ashdod port dockings for cruise ships during the 4 days you are able to tour Israel.

MarkZtours has come up with what we feel is the ideal solution during the period Ashdod port is not used. Our trademark approach is to develop with you, exclusive shore excursions that are unique, exciting, customized and very reasonably priced. We strive to provide you with outstanding service and an amazing experience in Israel.

We have recently opened a center of operation in the north of Israel near Haifa. We are using a marvelous Druze Transport company out of the nearby town of Daliat HaCarmel and are working with fantastic people and receiving outstanding service. We still have full serve out of Ashdod.

What we are recommending is a three day package:

Day One out of Haifa Port: Galilee/Golan - featuring the archaeological site at Zippori, Nazareth, the Sea of Galilee (varying depending on Jewish and/or Christian orientation), the Golan Heights with possible visits to Druze village, views of Israel Syria border - the Valley of Tears sight of major tank battle in Yom Kippur war.

Day Two out of Haifa port (if not docking in Ashdod) Jerusalem and the Dead Sea. We recommend driving directly to Masada then bathing in the Dead Sea, driving back to Jerusalem with a late afternoon early evening tour of the Old City.

Day Three also out of Haifa port but also available from Ashdod - visit to the famous and amazing archaelogical sites of Caesarea Maritima and Megiddo and a later afternoon visit to Jaffa and Tel Aviv.


If you are interested in a memorable "Druze Experience" in the north, you have come to the right place. We have developed wonderful visiting opportunities in the Druze community of Daliat HaCarmel. I use a Druze transport company out of Daliat HaCarmel about 30 minutes from Haifa. We have great drivers and wonderful vans. The Abu Anter Restaurant offers delicious, traditional Druze meals at reasonable prices.

I just finished a two day tour for passengers from the Celebrity Silhouette. The first day was a tour of the Galilee and Golan highlighting visits to Zippori archeological site, the holy city of Zefat, the Druze village of Migdal Shams where we enjoyed Knafe a special desert, viewpoints along the Israel/Syria border and more. Day two (the ship changed program and did not sail to Ashdod port) we took the group to Jerusalem and the Dead Sea - a long and exhilarating day.

Our rates are exceptionally competitive compared to other tour companies and the land excursions offered by your ship. We know the market. Also, we pride ourselves on customizing our tours to the unique needs of each group. We also give great attention to health, safety and security concerns to assure all goes well on our tours.

A day tour to the Galilee including the "Druze Experience" is $900 USD - total cost shared by our guests (e.g. 9 guests would pay $100 each plus entry fees where applicable.) The very comfortable van we use holds 12 guests plus driver and guide. We can customize the visit for Jewish and/or Christian orientation. We can substitute the Golan for Akko or other sites in the Galilee. There are other creative options as well depending on your interest.

With the issue of cruise ships not docking in Ashdod port, we have just developed a most innovative solution to the Jerusalem and Dead Sea portion of the tour on the second day.

We recommend driving directly to Masada then bathing in the Dead Sea then going back to Jerusalem ending up with a later afternoon/early evening visit to the Old City. We just completed our first such tour with amazing success. Again, we are flexible on this itinerary and will work with you to make the tour a dream come true. Cost is $1,100 USD (e.g. 11 passengers would pay $100 USD each plus entry fees where applicable.)

If you are interested, please write soon if interested. We already have received inquires from other passengers on the Silhouette October docking.